sábado, 23 de junio de 2007

On the Mekong

Two days on a "slowboat" up the Mekong, from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai: I don't know whether this sounds exiting or boring... I guess it's a little bit of both. We departed from Luang Prabang at 8.30 in the morning, and I hardly had gotten any sleep the night before. Don't ask me why... the heat is only one aspect, but probably not the only one. So the first day wasn't really one to remember...
The boat was not very full, it's low season... a dozen locals, half a dozen tourists. We made our way upstream, slowly but steady. The river was running through mountaineous terrain, quite beautiful... as the water level was very low - it's the end of the dry season - there were many shallows, and sometimes I really wondered whether we would pass them or hit the ground. Rocks emerged on all sides, which would be underwater in september or october... As I said before, I was quite tired, so the day dragged on, but all in all it wasn't that bad.
In the evening we arrived in Pak Beng, where we spent the night. Due to the low water level it is impossible to run the river in darkness, but I'm not sure whether there's any traffic at night at all... Pak Beng is another "one-street town" and looks a bit like beamed here from somewhere else, a little bit out of place. It's really in the middle of nowhere, but along this one street one finds almost a dozen of guest houses and even more restaurants. The town owns its "importance" to the fact, that these two-day Mekong trips (in either direction) have become quite popular and apparently through a good part of the year this place is full of foreigners who spend the night there (I think nobody stays for two nights). The town has a couple of hundred inhabitants, maybe little more than one thousand, it is accessible by river and one unpaved road, and has currently no regular electricity supply: generators are humming until 10 o'clock in the evening, when they are turned off and it's incredibly silent then... yet there are two Indian restaurants and one German-Laotian... I wonder how they ended up here...
I slept fairly well that night, although the guest house was not exciting at all, but I felt rested the next morning. Another day on the river, which I enjoyed much more. We passed through narrow valleys, but in the afternoon the landscape opened, becoming wider, with hills and lowlands replacing the steep mountain slopes. One thing didn't change: it remained hot... the motion of the boat produced a nice breeze, but whenever we stopped to take people on board or to let them go off, the heat was immediately around us, making us sweat just by sitting around and doing nothing...
In the evening we finally arrived in Huay Xai, the border town, with Thailand being on the other side of the river. It was too late to cross, so I had to stay in Laos one more day. Again the guest house wasn't really great, but as it was for only one night, I didn't care too much.
Huay Xai is a little bigger and becoming slowly but steady important, as a road is being constructed to connect Thailand with China. Yet as I wondered through the streets, I didn't like it , somehow... I had seen more interesting river towns...
I haven't made up my mind whether I would make this two-day trip again. Maybe it would be different entering Laos through Huay Xai and going from there to Luang Prabang, the more common direction. I myself was on my way back, a little bit tired and worn out. I guess I shouldn't think too much about it. It was quite nice, travelling on the Mekong slowly through north-western Laos, passing villages, fishermen, herds of water buffaloes, children playing on the river banks...
how many opportunities are there in life to see all this?

1 comentario:

Anónimo dijo...

Oi, achei teu blog pelo google tá bem interessante gostei desse post. Quando der dá uma passada pelo meu blog, é sobre camisetas personalizadas, mostra passo a passo como criar uma camiseta personalizada bem maneira. Até mais.